"DKerstan" (dkerstan)
04/13/2016 at 22:37 • Filed to: None
0
28|
"DKerstan" (dkerstan)
04/13/2016 at 22:37 • Filed to: None | 0
| 28 |
So today my 2010 Ford Fusion’s CEL light came on. When I pulled the codes they were P2096 and P2270.
P2096 is Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 1 and P2270 is O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean B1S2, so I’m thinking that I just have a bad O2 sensor.
Before I take it to a shop and have them look at it, does this sound like a correct diagnosis and how easy/hard would this be to fix on my own? I’m decently mechanically inclined but don’t have a lot of experience or a good place to work.
Heres a BMW Z8 Alpina for your time:
jkm7680
> DKerstan
04/13/2016 at 22:43 |
|
clear em and see if they come back.
Tekamul
> DKerstan
04/13/2016 at 22:46 |
|
2010? That seems early for an O2 sensor, did you run anything over lately? Maybe you’re getting intermittent readings. Of it is a sensor, they’re pretty plug and play.
You can test it when hot with a voltmeter. But that means either working around a hot exhaust system, or taking it out and heating with a blow torch.
Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo
> DKerstan
04/13/2016 at 22:47 |
|
On our 2001 Sable, the cat had imploded and the O2 sensors shut themselves off (I’m not a mechanic). By the time we replaced the cat, all four O2 sensors failed.
I would suggest seeing if you could do it yourself first, because it cost us quite a fortune. It was her only car, we both worked fulltime, so we bit the bullet and had it done at the shop. Very expensive repair on a car worth as much as a 2WD ‘94 Toyota pickup.
dogisbadob
> DKerstan
04/13/2016 at 22:48 |
|
Another vote that the post-cat downstream oxygen sensor may be going bad. They don’t cost too much from Rock Auto.
Odd that a car that new would have any bad emissions equipment. How many miles on the car?
Pearson Hurst
> DKerstan
04/13/2016 at 22:49 |
|
I agree that’s early for one to go out, but they’re dead simple to replace. Disconnect plug, unscrew, screw in a new one and plug it in. Just make sure you use a flare nut wrench or you’ll round that sucker off. Oh, and be sure to put a little anti-sieze in the new one.
|
DKerstan
> Tekamul
04/13/2016 at 22:54 |
|
The car has 120k miles so its higher milage than most its age. I’ll give that a try though thanks!
|
DKerstan
> Pearson Hurst
04/13/2016 at 22:54 |
|
thanks for the tip!
traitor joe
> jkm7680
04/13/2016 at 22:54 |
|
This is probably the best first step, just remember that O2 sensor codes sometimes take a few days to come on again.
|
dogisbadob
> DKerstan
04/13/2016 at 22:55 |
|
Most oxygen sensors will include a little packet of anti-seize. I know Denso does, and their sensors are good.
|
DKerstan
> jkm7680
04/13/2016 at 22:56 |
|
I tried that one already, unfortunately they came back...
|
DKerstan
> dogisbadob
04/13/2016 at 22:57 |
|
120k so it is higher milage than most its age.
Opposite Locksmith
> DKerstan
04/13/2016 at 23:00 |
|
Don't strip anything!
|
jkm7680
> DKerstan
04/13/2016 at 23:00 |
|
In that case, you’ve probably got a bad sensor.
Been getting the same MPG as usual or worse?
|
DKerstan
> jkm7680
04/13/2016 at 23:03 |
|
Its hard to tell because I was doing a lot more urban driving than usual this week, but overall there have been no noticeable side effects.
|
jkm7680
> DKerstan
04/13/2016 at 23:17 |
|
Hm, in that case you could wait it out of you don’t have the time or what have you. It’s not too urgent.
It’s an easy job, Especially on that car, I’ve had $1,000 02 sensor replacements before.
His Stigness
> DKerstan
04/13/2016 at 23:18 |
|
Which engine do you have?
djgreenlava
> Pearson Hurst
04/13/2016 at 23:20 |
|
Would MAF cleaner work? Same idea right?
|
DKerstan
> jkm7680
04/13/2016 at 23:20 |
|
I appreciate the help! this is the first problem I’ve had with this car. other than this its just been routine maintenance.
|
DKerstan
> His Stigness
04/13/2016 at 23:21 |
|
the 3.0 V6 Flex Fuel
|
His Stigness
> DKerstan
04/13/2016 at 23:29 |
|
Good, that’s the one I looked up (technician here).
So it’s probably just a bad sensor, but before you replace it, is the car running fine? Is it stumbling at idle or have a rough idle?
If no, then it’s most likely the sensor, in which case:
It’s been a while since I’ve worked on Ford’s but usually, bank 2 sensors are pretty easy to change. If you don’t really have any tools, just go to Amazon and get an oxygen sensor socket and replace it. And make sure to get an OEM part, not aftermarket.
|
DKerstan
> His Stigness
04/13/2016 at 23:37 |
|
Thanks for the help! From the codes I’m seeing its the bank 1 sensor 2. I have a basic tool kit, sockets, wrenches, ratchets, vice grips, etc. Its more accessing the bottom of the engine bay without a lift that I’m concerned about.
|
His Stigness
> DKerstan
04/13/2016 at 23:49 |
|
Get this wrench wrench , it should be the only thing you need to get the sensor out and back in. I also checked the labor guide and none of them take more than half an hour, so changing it, even without a lift shouldn’t be a problem; just jack it up and put it on stands you should be fine.
|
jkm7680
> DKerstan
04/13/2016 at 23:53 |
|
Good luck with it man!
|
DKerstan
> His Stigness
04/13/2016 at 23:55 |
|
sweet, thanks for all your help!
|
His Stigness
> DKerstan
04/13/2016 at 23:58 |
|
No worries. Good luck with it.
tacogx
> DKerstan
04/14/2016 at 01:14 |
|
“CEL light” noooooooooo
gl on your car tho
AMGtech - now with more recalls!
> djgreenlava
04/14/2016 at 02:07 |
|
NO!
|
AMGtech - now with more recalls!
> DKerstan
04/14/2016 at 02:25 |
|
Bear in mind I haven’t worked on Ford’s since about the time people realized they were getting screwed on their mortgages...
It probably is just a sensor, however those faults don’t indicate an electrical issue but a mechanical one. The faults suggest that that sensor is reporting a lack of hydrocarbons/excessive oxygen being exhausted from the cylinder. This could be caused by a vacuum leak, partially clogged injector, weak ignition coil/spark plug, low fuel pressure/volume/level, or even other sensors reading inaccurately. I would automatically rule out anything that affects more than one bank (vacuum leaks, fuel pressure/volume/level, other sensors) because you only have the fault on one sensor.
I would start by watching the live data readings from your sensors. Not knowing what types of sensors they use I’m going to guess that their voltage readings should cycle between .1v - .9v, with .5v being the “perfect” 14.7:1 A/F ratio that’s its aiming for assuming it uses traditional oxygen sensors. But if it uses lambda sensors, it will likely be more like .8v - 1.2v. I suggest watching the good sensor data and comparing to the faulty one. If it switches/changes readings continually but tends to favor either higher or lower voltage, then it probably isn’t the sensor. If it doesn’t move around much, or just freezes then put a sensor in it.
In my experience, oxygen sensors don’t fail nearly as often as the internet (looking at you craigslist posters) seems to think they do. But people on the internet don’t like to tell the whole world they were wrong a couple weeks later when the problem comes back.
Hope this helps and good luck!